On the nose, lemon, citrus, white flowers, fresh hay and some mineral notes. On the palate, sharp acidity with rich and creamy lemon and butter components with nice minerality. A clean, persistent finish. There are some similarities to the Pur Sang, as others have noted it is softer -- and does not hit the same mark in terms of minerality, complexity, structure or focus. That all being said, this is an outstanding expression of the varietal and the place. It would also probably be one of the nicest bottles of white wine you would hope to find on the shelf at most boutique wine shops.

I am repeating the contents of the post about Didier Dagueneau as his story is worth repeating (and reading). His wines are not the easiest to find -- and while I would never turn down an opportunity to enjoy his wines, I would opt for the Pur Sang over the Blanc Fumé de Pouilly.

View Pur Sang review.

About Didier Dagueneau
Didier Dagueneau has been called a nonconformist, independent, eccentric, and maverick. He is also dedicated to producing some of the greatest white wines of the Loire — and all of France for that matter. He is considered by many to be a master of the sauvignon blanc grape.

He is on a crusade to redeem the reputation of authentic Pouilly-Fumé. Domaine Didier Dagueneau is located in Saint Andelain, a village in the Pouilly Fumé Appellation. He owns about 28 acres of land consisting of mainly clay and flint based soils (or ‘Silex’ in French). Dagueneau is a perfectionist and he attends to every detail — from vineyard management (biodynamic since 1993) to the cellar, which is said to look like a cathedral. He goes way beyond the regulations of the appellation — pruning severely, de-budding, de-leafing, thinning clusters, and keeping low yields — and each harvest is done manually over several tries (he has the labor receipts to prove it).

Others have written more eloquently about Dagueneau. The following passage was translated from Vallee de la Loire – Grandeur Nature by James Turnball.

A young rebel with convictions. Dagueneau owes his success to the strength of his convictions. A local winemaker’s son, he set out on his own in 1982. He began using oak barrels for his vinifications a couple years later and wines of great quality were not far behind. Certain traditionalists, however, said that his wines were not “real” Pouilly Fume.

Dagueneau’s non-conformity has helped him more than hurt him: his long tousled hair, his bushy beard, his intense gaze, not to mention his passion for sled dogs have all earned him the nickname “the madman of Saint-Andelain” and made him very popular with the press.

What does Dagueneau have that the other don’t? He is extremely meticulous and possesses a special intuition where winemaking is concerned. His goals are always authenticity and perfection. To obtain grapes of the highest quality, his vineyard workers spend at least three months carefully de-budding even after a severe pruning earlier in the year. And when the grapes are perfectly ripe, the harvest is done by hand, so that only grapes of impeccable condition are picked, the others are either thrown out or left on the vine to be picked later.

His new winemaking facilities, specifically adapted to Dagueneau’s techniques, use gravity for moving liquids and allow him to apply his ideas without the slightest compromise. After fermentation, the wines are aged in a beautiful cellar containing big barrels and “cigares” (small, long oval barrels which he designed and are made especially for him). The cellar is kept quite cool to limit interaction between the wine and the oak, thus avoiding an overly oaky aroma in the wine.

Dagueneau makes four different dry white wines, all Pouilly Fumés. His basic wine is the En Chailloux, a blend from several vineyards. Next step up is the Buisson Menard, more flinty in style, but still round, and more ageworthy. The remaining two wines are both superstars from single vineyards, and are barrel fermented. Both come from slate soils with one being called Silex, and the other known as Pur Sang.

He is on a crusade to redeem the reputation of authentic Pouilly-Fumé. Domaine Didier Dagueneau is located in Saint Andelain, a village in the Pouilly Fumé Appellation. He owns about 28 acres of land consisting of mainly clay and flint based soils (or ‘Silex’ in French). Dagueneau is a perfectionist and he attends to every detail -- from vineyard management (biodynamic since 1993) to the cellar, which is said to look like a cathedral. He goes way beyond the regulations of the appellation -- pruning severely, de-budding, de-leafing, thinning clusters, and keeping low yields -- and each harvest is done manually over several tries (he has the labor receipts to prove it).

Others have written more eloquently about Dagueneau. The following passage was translated from Vallee de la Loire – Grandeur Nature by James Turnball.

A young rebel with convictions. Dagueneau owes his success to the strength of his convictions. A local winemaker’s son, he set out on his own in 1982. He began using oak barrels for his vinifications a couple years later and wines of great quality were not far behind. Certain traditionalists, however, said that his wines were not “real” Pouilly Fume.

Dagueneau’s non-conformity has helped him more than hurt him: his long tousled hair, his bushy beard, his intense gaze, not to mention his passion for sled dogs have all earned him the nickname “the madman of Saint-Andelain” and made him very popular with the press.

What does Dagueneau have that the other don’t? He is extremely meticulous and possesses a special intuition where winemaking is concerned. His goals are always authenticity and perfection. To obtain grapes of the highest quality, his vineyard workers spend at least three months carefully de-budding even after a severe pruning earlier in the year. And when the grapes are perfectly ripe, the harvest is done by hand, so that only grapes of impeccable condition are picked, the others are either thrown out or left on the vine to be picked later.

His new winemaking facilities, specifically adapted to Dagueneau’s techniques, use gravity for moving liquids and allow him to apply his ideas without the slightest compromise. After fermentation, the wines are aged in a beautiful cellar containing big barrels and “cigares” (small, long oval barrels which he designed and are made especially for him). The cellar is kept quite cool to limit interaction between the wine and the oak, thus avoiding an overly oaky aroma in the wine.

Dagueneau makes four different dry white wines, all Pouilly Fumés. His basic wine is the En Chailloux, a blend from several vineyards. Next step up is the Buisson Menard, more flinty in style, but still round, and more ageworthy. The remaining two wines are both superstars from single vineyards, and are barrel fermented. Both come from slate soils with one being called Silex, and the other known as Pur Sang.

Pur Sang means "Thoroughbred" in English. The flavors tend to fall somewhere in between the En Chailloux (which accounts for half his production and is his softest, friendliest wine) and Cuvée Silex (his most structured cuvée). The Pur Sang is said to be a more hedonistic Sauvignon (often on par with the Silex), but less mineral driven.

That being said the minerality comes through loud and clear on the nose as well as lemon, citrus, white flowers and some fresh hay. On the palate, very structured, rich and creamy with pronounced mineral components, chalky and loads of lemon zest with a hint of tangerine and nectarine. Great acidity with a very clean, pure and an extremely long finish.

The acidity and strong mineral components make this a great pairing for mussels, raw clams or oysters as well as other seafood dishes. Also, seems as though this wine might benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring....

They say that in the United States, scores sell wine. In Europe, a good story sells wine. Dagueneau is a great story -- and his wines are also scored well and often included in TWS Top 100 Wines in any given vintage.

View releated post Didier Dagueneau Blanc Fumé de Pouilly, 2006.

This wine may not be a great value (ok, it isn't a good value) or very easy to find, but it is worth seeking out -- and it might be a good time to do so given that 2006 was such a good year in Loire. Not to mention that his lore will only continue to increase and the dollar shows no signs of getting up off its knees.

A stunning wine. Imported by Polaner Selections.

My first Pouilly-Fumé. Very very pale green-yellow in color. Surpisingly aromatic - guava, mango, grapefruit, fresh-cut-grass, and playground gravel on the nose. Explosive and expansive mouthfeel - like a spikey balloon expanding in your mouth - scintillating with spicy acidity on the outside yet round and viscous inside. Gunpowder keeps coming to mind. Very fresh, crisp, and bracing - dry in style, but very ripe fruit flavors balance the deal. It reminded me of a hypothetical mix - a dash of new-world Viognier and a bone-dry, austere Mosel Riesling - but zingier. Long, chalky finish.

To my tastes, this simply outclasses the New Zealand wines of the variety that I have tried (including some at this price and above) in terms of complexity - with the gravelly flinty bits and a the hint of (signature) smoke and great fruit. I'd love this with grilled fish, shellfish, or goat cheese salads. Seek this out if you've never had an old-world SB - you'll be rewarded.

Source: Vintage & Vine/Liquid Library  Price: $47  Drink: Now-2008

Web: www.s-dagueneau-filles.fr

Quando si parla di Pouilly sur Loire e Pouilly Fumè occorre fare una precisa distinzione delle due AOC loiresi.

Pur vinificandosi nel territorio di Pouilly sur Loire, la prima è composta solo da uve chasselas, mentre la seconda solo di Souvignon Blanc.

E pur guardando ai fatidici luoghi più vocati alla interpretazione di questo grande vitigno: Les Berthiers Saint Andelain, Les Cornets, Les Loges, oggi abbiamo degustato a Les Berthiers di Serge Dagueneau & Filles, Florence et Valérie, il loro Pouilly Fumè base 2006.

Un bel paglierino che si piega al dorato di bella lucentezza poggia su di un ventaglio olfattivo che dialoga tra sentori erbacei- peperone sopratutto-e foglie di limoncella con nouances agrumate fra un anno o due questi volteranno all'arancia candita ed al caramello.

L'attacco al palato è fresco, l'acidità lo supporta molto bene, elegante,di gran classe che alla centrale palatale sprigiona una sua ancora attenuata, mineralità. Retrolfattivamente ritorna l'accenno agrumato. Questo col tempo diventerà selce e sentori di legno di bosso.

Buona la persistenza come anche il finale.

87/100

 

Da Lorenzo - C.so Dei Mille 80, Palermo.

 

Maurizio Mattarella
RESPONSABILE
GO WINE PALERMO

Viinituvasta löytyi André Dezat'n Pouilly-Fumé'ta, joka kuulosti mielenkiintoiselta. Vaalea, oljenkeltainen väri. Tuoksussa ja maussa paljon mustaherukkapuskaa niin kuin olettaa saattaa. Lievää savuisuutta löytyy myös. Jotenkin viini vaikuttaa kuitenkin hieman sulkeutuneelta.

Joka tapauksessa ihan kelpo viini, mutta silti lievä pettymys kun ottaa huomioon, että tuottajan pitäisi muistaakseni kuitenkin olla sieltä paremmasta päästä.

5e / 12cl @ Panimoravintola Koulu