Aroma: Moderate to strong phenols (usually clove) and fruity esters (usually banana). The balance and intensity of the phenol and ester components can vary but the best examples are reasonably balanced and fairly prominent. Noble hop character ranges from low to none. A light to moderate wheat aroma (which might be perceived as bready or grainy) may be present but other malt characteristics should not. No diacetyl or DMS. Optional, but acceptable, aromatics can include a light, citrusy tartness, a light to moderate vanilla character, and/or a low bubblegum aroma. None of these optional characteristics should be high or dominant, but often can add to the complexity and balance.

Appearance: Pale straw to very dark gold in color. A very thick, moussy, long-lasting white head is characteristic. The high protein content of wheat impairs clarity in an unfiltered beer, although the level of haze is somewhat variable. A beer “mit hefe” is also cloudy from suspended yeast sediment (which should be roused before drinking). The filtered Krystal version has no yeast and is brilliantly clear.

Flavor: Low to moderately strong banana and clove flavor. The balance and intensity of the phenol and ester components can vary but the best examples are reasonably balanced and fairly prominent. Optionally, a very light to moderate vanilla character and/or low bubblegum notes can accentuate the banana flavor, sweetness and roundness; neither should be dominant if present. The soft, somewhat bready or grainy flavor of wheat is complementary, as is a slightly sweet Pils malt character. Hop flavor is very low to none, and hop bitterness is very low to moderately low. A tart, citrusy character from yeast and high carbonation is often present. Well rounded, flavorful palate with a relatively dry finish. No diacetyl or DMS.

Mouthfeel: Medium-light to medium body; never heavy. Suspended yeast may increase the perception of body. The texture of wheat imparts the sensation of a fluffy, creamy fullness that may progress to a light, spritzy finish aided by high carbonation. Always effervescent.

Overall Impression: A pale, spicy, fruity, refreshing wheat-based ale.

Comments: These are refreshing, fast-maturing beers that are lightly hopped and show a unique banana-and-clove yeast character. These beers often don’t age well and are best enjoyed while young and fresh. The version “mit hefe” is served with yeast sediment stirred in; the krystal version is filtered for excellent clarity. Bottles with yeast are traditionally swirled or gently rolled prior to serving. The character of a krystal weizen is generally fruitier and less phenolic than that of the hefe-weizen.

History: A traditional wheat-based ale originating in Southern Germany that is a specialty for summer consumption, but generally produced year-round.

Ingredients: By German law, at least 50% of the grist must be malted wheat, although some versions use up to 70%; the remainder is Pilsner malt. A traditional decoction mash gives the appropriate body without cloying sweetness. Weizen ale yeasts produce the typical spicy and fruity character, although extreme fermentation temperatures can affect the balance and produce off-flavors. A small amount of noble hops are used only for bitterness.

Commercial Examples: Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier, Schneider Weisse Weizenhell, Paulaner Hefe-Weizen, Hacker-Pschorr Weisse, Plank Bavarian Hefeweizen, Ayinger Bräu Weisse, Ettaler Weissbier Hell, Franziskaner Hefe-Weisse, Andechser Weissbier Hefetrüb, Kapuziner Weissbier, Erdinger Weissbier, Penn Weizen, Barrelhouse Hocking Hills HefeWeizen, Eisenbahn Weizenbier

For those of you who are so inclined, today's concoction consists of:

• 10lbs pale malt
• 12oz. Crystal malt, 60L
• 8oz. Caramunich 40
• 8oz. Biscuit malt
• 6oz. Carapils
• 0.4oz Nugget 12.5% at 60 minutes (boiling hops)
• 0.75oz Liberty 4.5% at 10 minutes (finishing hops)
• Spices at 5 minutes—3tsp cinnamon, 0.5tsp ginger, 0.5tsp nutmeg, 0.5 tsp cloves, 0.25tsp allspice, and 0.25tsp vanilla extract (faux pumpkin taste)
• Pitch 1272 for fermentation

The success or failure of this batch should be known by the end of the month. Stay tuned!

I'm still brewing.  Thanks for asking!  Won a couple ribbons, so I guess that's vaguely noteworthy.

Bottled a Saison last weekend.  Even though it's only been a few days, I plan on drinking one tonight.  Looking forward to it.

Made a few meads in the interim.  I've got one in tertiary right now that I'm particularly excited about.

This is going to be a collaborative effort! A few of my friends and neighbors have also expressed interest, to help share costs and do something pleasant together whilst snowed in. Should be a great time, but that is not to say that I am approaching this without any apprehension: I can remember way back to when I was about seven or eight years old, and my dad tried his hand at homebrewing. None of the grownups would let me taste the sudsy stuff, but I distinctly remember their grimaces as they tried the batches. I won't even get into his attempts at root beer. Soon enough, the fermenting tanks and carboys were lain by the wayside, and the only person fiddling with the bottle capper was me. I hope to be a little more persistent--and brew some delicious beer.

This will be an ongoing series, with updates, photos, and commentary along the way to track my progress. I would welcome and encourage you, dear reader, to send along advice, admonishments, tips and tricks, and good beer karma. Cheers!

(This is an update for the participants in the 2008 Fermenting Revolution course at the Omega Institute.)

Our Octoberfest has been in the bottles a week now, so I popped one open to have a taste and guess what: it tastes like . . . wait for it, wait for it . . . an Octoberfest!

It is still a bit young though. The body needs to firm up a little and the appearance could stand to clarify a bit. I think the honey we added may have thinned the body slightly since honey boosts the alcohol level without adding malt character. But given that we used a California style ale yeast for a lager style beer, I think we still managed to achieve the crispness of an Octoberfest.

I'm travelling all next week, so I'm going to have to figure out whether I can get these in the mail to you next week or whether it'll have to wait an extra week. In either case, this beer deserves another week in the bottle so even if I get it off to you this week, you should let it condition at least until the end of the week. Keep checking back here for updates to find out when this glorious amber liquid will be shipping out for your mailbox.

I started into the hobby when my wife got me a Mr. Beer home brewing kit for Christmas last year. She also got a refill kit with three more recipes. My first batch was a pale ale. It turned out really good. The second batch I brewed was a wheat beer. I did a lot of things wrong and it didn't turn out so well, but it was still drinkable. The third batch was an Oktoberfest I think. I added some blueberries to the batch and it turned out horribly. I ended up dumping all of it out.

That was it for 6 months until about two weeks ago when I purchased my first 5 gallon equipment kit. I also got a Hefe Weizen recipe kit. I brewed it up about 10 days ago and that is where this blog is going to start.

Feel free to leave comments, tips, or just general feedback. I'm just here to learn and have a good time. So here we go. Cheers!

Fermentation slowed down to an occassional bubble this evening, so I racked the beer off into a bottling bucket, clean and sanitized a slew of bottles, pitched some boiled dry malt extract, and bottled enough of these beers in champagne style bottles so there'd be one for each of you.

Here are some pictures of the process, in the order that they occurred (more or less).

I'll let these condition in the bottle for a week or so. Then I'll try one just to make sure nothing went awry, and then I'll send 'em on their way.

By the way, yesterday I brewed a 'kitchen sink' beer. My neighbor popped by with a bunch of ingredients he had laying around. I gathered together some random things I had and we came up with a recipe for a beer that uses 'everything but the kitchen sink.' And actually, we used that too!

The highlights of the brew were some homegrown hops my neighbor grew this year, some honey from my beehive, a bunch of mugwort, and some juniper berries. We're going for a woodsy, autumnal stout. Here's a picture of the hop cones from my neighbors little hop farm.

Great news. I checked the fermenter early this morning and found it happily gurgling away, strong and steady. The thermometer strip still read 74 F. but our California style yeast was doing its job.

Our next step will be to monitor for a slowdown and eventually stop to the bubbling, then we'll rack off into the secondary fermenter. I expect that within the next 4-6 days so check back this weekend for another update.

On a side note, the honey we used in this beer came close to being the only honey I would see this year. As I mentioned, I harvested a whole box of honey a couple weeks back. Its been sitting in my friend's basement waiting for us to extract it. Well, my friend was preparing some sugar syrup to place on the hives as a feeder for the winter and he accidentally left the stove on over night. His kitchen caught on fire! He awoke to a house full of smoke, grabbed an extinguisher and saved the house. The kitchen was lost but he and his family all got out and were fine. Oh, and the honey in the basement is fine - so maybe we'll make a mead soon if we ever get around to extracting it from the comb.

I have had time to brew (and drink, yay!) 2 batches of beer in the interim. The first was a very simple light bitter using 1lb of light DME, a handful of hops and a gallon of water to make a refreshing brew. The 2nd was virtually identical, with the addition of a handful of crystal malt to add a little more body and flavour. I'm in the process of trying to find my "standard" brew.

With regard to all the messages about Easybrew that I get: People with order problems need to contact Annette Ferre directly on her personal email address, annette.ferre@btopenworld.com

Cheers ;-)

This past weekend I led a course on Beer, Brewing, and Sustainability at the Omega Institute in Rhinebeck, NY. During the class, we brewed a five gallon batch of Octoberfest using organic ingredients from Seven Bridges with White Labs' San Francisco Lager yeast which is designed to be used at ale fermentation temperatures.

I promised the course participants I'd send them each a bottle of the resulting beer and that I'd keep them updated about the beer's progress via this blog. So this entry is for you guys - thanks for coming to the course, I had a great time brewing with you!

The ride home to Washington D.C. from Rhinebeck was long and warm - not great conditions for the beer to ferment, but I kept it in the back seat and kept the A/C on the whole way. When I got home I placed it at the bottom of a closet and covered it with some fabric to block any extra light.

As of this morning there was no fermentation activity. Today was hot out again, with a high of 79 degrees Fahrenheit. My place is very shaded though and probably didn't top 75 degrees F but still, that's a little warmer than we'd like it to be.

This evening I took a look at the thermometer strip that's on the outside of the plastic fermenter and it read on the low side of 74 F - definitely a little higher than we want, but I did see very slow bubbles gurgling up through the airlock - almost a minute in between each bubble. The temperature may be causing a slow fermentation. Tonight the weather is forecast to drop down to 59 F outside so we ought to hit the perfect fermentation zone inside the closet of around 65 degrees or so.

I'll check again before I go to sleep to see if the pace picked up at all. If we don't see some improvement by tomorrow night I may toss in some more yeast to kick it into gear.

Batch# 17
Batch Size: 5
Boil Size: 6.41
Type: AG
Source: Beersmith Forums (Keith Brown)
Brewer: Tyler Nodine

Brew Date: 10/3/08
Estimated OG: 1.057 SG
Estimated Color: 13.3
Estimated IBU: 20.1 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Grains/Extracts: Total Grain Weight: 11.44 lb

Hops:

Yeast:
US-04 English Ale Dry Yeast
Starter  Used?: NO
Starter Make Date:
Starter Size (500/1000ml):

Adjuncts/Misc:
4oz Corn Sugar (Priming)

Notes:

** Getting terrible efficiency. According to Beersmith Im only getting about 54% actual eff. Something's wrong.
** First time using Better Bottle Carboy

Pre Heat MT 185F
Lower Temp to 168F
Mash In > Stir > 154F
Rest 60m
Mash out 2 Gal 196F > Stir > 168F
Rest 10m > Drain
Sparge 2.5 Gal 180F > Stir
Rest 10m > Drain
Collected 6.25 Gal.

10/4/08 - Fermentation started pretty quickly. Bubbles were evident last night only about 5-6 hours after pitching dry yeast directly onto wort. Bubbling quickly still this morning.

In the past decade, bottled water has become a convenience most Americans have come to take for granted. Homebrewers often use it in place of water from the tap. Likewise, coffee connoisseurs are reaching for the bottled stuff in attempts to brew great coffee at home.

Fact is, water is the biggest ingredient in both beer and coffee, so it makes sense to pay attention to its quality. But did you know that roughly half of bottled water is just tap water put in a bottle? And furthermore, that the health and safety regulations governing tap water are far more effective than those in place for bottled water - bottled water often is untested whereas there are free annual water quality reports available for all municipal tap water systems?

What's more is that bottled water is an astounding 750-2,700 times more expensive than tap water.

Take a look at the new, free Responsible Purchasing Guide to Bottled Water Alternatives. Then take the Center for a New American Dream's Pledge to Break the Bottled Water Habit. ]]> http://purerlife.wordpress.com/?p=110 Sat, 06 Sep 2008 15:08:05 +0000 purerlife http://purerlife.de.wordpress.com/2008/09/06/i-am-a-cider-drinker/ Well to be honest I'm not as I don't drink, but I anticipate R will be in the future, because today he had us both out collecting apples. Yes it was pouring down with rain, and that just shows our commitment to this natural way of living, although it's not really weather FD1 our dog appreciates. Well lets face it, it's not stopped raining in days so we have little choice but to be out in it. We had been out earlier to purchase a 30 litre fermentation tank, which we managed to get from a Home Brewing shop in a neighbouring town. It's amazing to think these places still exist considering how uneconomic it must be nowadays to make homebrew in comparison to the supermarket prices. Unless most people are doing what we are doing which is collecting part of the produce for free!

Anyway the plan is now to chop the apples up and put them through the fruit press this weekend, not sure about the process from there on, but apparently depending on how much sugar and yeast you add, depends on how strong it becomes. So it could end up as apple schnapps or cider vinegar if it all goes wrong!

Not many people are collecting the apples or the blackberries at all, which is nice for us as we have lots of them, but it seems such a shame that more people aren't experiencing how lovely food really can taste when it is wildcrafted.

Pada tulisan perdana saya kali ini, saya ingin memberikan sedikit informasi bagaimana memanfaatkan sebuah Multimeter Digital untuk dijadikan sebuah L-meter yang dapat bermanfaat terutama dalam kegiatan homebrewer.

L-meter yang dibangun ini saya dapat dari sebuah situs di internet: http://cappels.org/dproj/Lmeter/lmet.htm, adapun jangkah pengukuran L-meter ini adalah dari 500 nH s/d 50 uH.

Rangkaian L- Meter

Ada baiknya kita simak cara kerja L-meter ini:

Prinsip kerja rangkaian ini adalah seperti jika kita memberikan sebuah pulsa dengan lebar tertentu ke sebuah induktor, untuk kemudian diamati pulsa keluarannya baik frekuensi dan amplitudonya dari pulsa tersebut. Setelah itu pulsa tadi akan di lewatkan pada sebuah Low-Pass filter dan yang muncul pada output dari Low-Pass tersebut hanyalah rata-rata sinyal yang berupa tegangan. Tegangan ini adalah tegangan DC yang merupakan peralihan bentuk dari pulsa yang telah dilewatkan induktor. Artinya bila terjadi perubahan ukuran induktor (Nilai besarnya) maka tegangan rata-rata yang muncul akan berubah juga.

Bila kita dalami lebih lanjut. Ada beberapa pernyataan yang bersifat matematis:

Lebar Pulsa = Nilai Induktansi X sebuah konstanta (Bil. Imajiner)
Output Tegangan = Lebar Pulsa X Amplitudo Pulsa X Frekuensi

Artinya, kalau disubsitusikan kedua pernyataan matematis diatas, adalah:

Output Tegangan = Nilai Induktansi X Konstanta X Lebar Pulsa X Amplitudo Pulsa X Frek

Bila dianggap Konstanta, Lebar Pulsa, Amplitudo Pulsa dan Frekuensi dari rangkaian adalah tetap, maka

OUTPUT TEGANGAN = NILAI INDUKTANSI

Tegangan DC dan Amplitudo Pulsa memiliki satuan volts, lebar pulsa memiliki satuan second dan Frequency memiliki satuan Hz (1/seconds).

Pulsa dibangkitkan oleh schmitt trigger oscillator yang menggunakan umpanbalik pada pasangan tahanan dan kapasitor (2k pot dan 3.9k resistor serta 1000 pf kapasitor). Lebar pulsa yang dihasilkan setara dengan lebar pulsa yang dihasilkan oleh sebuah . Lebar pulsa yang dihasilkan dapat di serap oleh sebuah induktans dengan cara melewatkannya melalui resistor untuk kemudian masuk ke induktans tersebut. Dan menghubungkannya lebih lanjut kepada pembangkit gelombang gigi gergaji yang tersambung dengan masukan dari schmitt trigger oscillator. Ssistem ini akan menghasilkan pulsa kotak yang cukup baik. Lebar pulsa kotak yang dihasilkan adalah sebanding dengan lebar pulsa yang dihasilkan oleh induktans dan berbanding terbalik dengan lebar pulsa yang dihasilkan oleh tahanan. Untuk mendapatkan lebar pulsa tertentu sangat tergantung pada siklus naik dan siklus turun dari schmitt trigger oscillator, dan hal ini membutuhkan tingkat linearitas yang baik.

Gerbang inverter terakhir (Yang terhubung dengan tahanan 39K) akan membuat pulsa positif dengan sebuah polaritas mengingat tahanan 39K tersebut tehubung juga dengan sebuah kapasitor elektrolit yang memiliki polaritas positif dan negatif. Sehingga bila ada kenaikan nilai induktans yang terpasang maka akan ada pula kenaikan tegangan pada ujung dari kaki-kaki kapasitor.

Akhirnya Persamaan: OUTPUT TEGANGAN = NILAI INDUKTANSI, terbukti,..!!!!

CARA KALIBRASI

1. Hubungkan multimeter dengan L-meter, Ambilah sebuah inductor untuk kalibrasi. Misal menggunakan linduktor dengan nilai 1 microhenry. Kemudian aturlah variabel resistor 2K sehingga menunjukkan nilai 100 millivolt pada multimeter digital. Ada baiknya sesuaikan saklar pemilih range tegangan baik. Sehinngga 1 mikrohenry = 1 millivolt.
2. Mungkin akan terjadi permasalahan pada saat kalibrasi. Hal ini disebabkan biasanya karena perubahan waktu pulsa naik ke pulsa turun atau sebaliknya dari 7414 sering tidak sama. Dan untuk mengatasi hal ini dapat dengan mengubah nilai tahanan dan nilai kapasitor (tahanan 3.9K dan kapasitor 1000 pf) pada bagiam schmitt trigger oscilator.
3. Ketika Lx (Induktor) di hubungkan singkat, maka output tegangan dari L-meter akan bernilai 0 Volt. Jika tidak maka biasanya terlalu banyak induktans penganggu yang menganggu Lx atau bisa juga sistem grounding/pentahanan dari L-meter yang kurang baik. Atau mungkin juga 7414 anda rusak,..!!
4. Ketika Lx tidak terhubung tegangan akan menunjukkan sekitar 2,5 Volt (harga 50% dari tegangan power supply). Jika tidak nilai ambang pulsa naik atau turun yang dihasilkan oleh 7414 tidak simetris. Jangan berkecil hati, anda dapat mengatur frekuensi Schmitt trigger oscillator seperti langkah kedua.
5. Bila pada langkah 4 ini tegangan dibawah 2,5 volt, segera cek apakah ada perkabelan yang salah, permasalah pada system regulator anda atau jika menggunakan baterai apakah baterai anda sudah low power, mungkin 7414 anda rusak, dan yang terakhir mungkin anda menggunakan multimeter dengan tahanan dalam yang rendah. Ada baiknya menggunakan multimeter digital dengan tahanan dalam sekitar 10 Meg Ohm.
6. Schmitt Trigger Oscilator pada rancangan L-meter ini bekerja pada frekuensi 173 Khz, Bila diukur ternyata frekuensi yang dihasilkan terlalu besar maka dapat mengganti komponen oscilatornya (Seperti langkah kedua) atau mengganti jenis ic 7414 dengan pembuat yang berbeda.

Grafik Hub. Tegangan(mV) VS Nilai Induktans(uH)

L-meter sedang mengukur Induktor dengan nilai 900 nH

Sumber: http://cappels.org/dproj/Lmeter/lmet.htm

And now a prost to end this first post (Please raise your glasses):

Here's to many days of good brewing and good beer!

Cheers Everyone!

Evidently the summer season is supposedly an off season?  damn, I didn't see that anywhere on my brewing license, and I don't have a tag for "off season brewing". I do have the High Gravity Tag though. :)

This summer I think Ive brewed 3 or 4 beers in the blazing hot heat of summer in TX. Outdoors, no shade, ALL GRAIN!

Next time, someone please keep me advised of these supposed OFF SEASON's from brewing!

[caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="500" caption="Preparing to brew with the Thirsty Hopster"][/caption]
Gail typing: Steve and I took a great class last spring -- weeks of intent and intensive beer tasting. Steve had gotten into a discussion while hanging out at City Beer and heard about a tasting course to be taught by a Grand Master beer judge, John Watson. We signed up, and plunged into a tour through BJCP styles without having known anything about that organization of trained volunteer judges. Since we only wanted to learn more about styles, tasting and flaws, we both dismissed the idea of becoming judges from the outset. Somewhere along the line, I got interesting in taking the exam. I read a lot about brewing science. So I passed the exam and started judging. My fellow judge students have encouraged me to brew, and I developed a nice little rant about how a wine judge would be startled to be asked if he or she made wine at home... Quite reasonable. I like that stance.

Then in July I went and made a batch of beer anyway. It was a great sensory experience, and I ended up with a flavorful but seriously undercarbonated porter. (I have to admit it's just not a success, even considering the historic accuracy of lower carbonation for the style. My first attempt was still too flat. I plan to improvise some hearty beer soup recipes with the rest of it.)

Meanwhile I'd been talking with JJ of The Thirsty Hopster about brewing together. Two new homebrewers with improvisational dreams, we went against common sense and made a crazy plan. We chose a big, bold beer recipe, changed it around and confidently set out yesterday to do a creative, crazy yet solid collaboration beer. I believe it's my second and her fourth brewing adventure.

As JJ describes in a funny and detailed post, the major milestone of getting a vigorous rolling boil never happened for us. After our satisfying partial mash and sparging, we struggled to get the brewing pot up to boiling to add the needed malt extract. Once we had all those extra sugars in there from the extract, needing a higher temperature to actually boil again, the leak in the gas line either increased, or the gravity of the simmering syrupy wort was just too much. We got a gentle boil after several hours of burning fuel on a back porch camp-burner flame that kept blowing out. We improved the wind-screening, and added the first hops, hoping to bring it back quickly to the rolling boil of our dreams. It merely simmered at about 205 to 215 degrees F.

Tough break. Or non-break, to be precise about it. About 20 minutes into the "boil" I attempted to drive home to add additional firepower to the sides of the kettle. Getting across town and back and circling for 17 minutes to finally park semi-legally in the lower Haight took a total of 40 minutes. JJ stayed on pace and did all the additions, and was cooling the pot when I finally returned. No rolling boil, no hot break. So we'll see what happens.

The thing about reading so much about brewing science and not having genuine depth of experience is that I "know" the importance of the vigor of the boil and the perils of hotside aeration. However, I didn't know until looking it up this evening that indeed we probably should have gently stirred our watched pot that would not boil, once we were into that reality. JJ suspected that might help, but she used the term "aerate" so I got all hung up on remembering that the time for aeration is at pitching time, when the yeast-friendly temperature is reached and the wort is racked into the fermenter. However, it seems that careful non-splashy stirring of near-boiling wort might help some in such a situation, it appears. Or maybe not. I hope nevert to have to deal with a low flame again, of course.

Anyway, hanging out with Jessica is always fun, and we finished with some tasty barrel aged special brews at Toronado. (A remarkably complex Marin Brewing and Green Flash freaky funky collaboration beer, and a luscious barrel-aged version of the inimitable black lager Death and Taxes from Moonlight called "At Arms Length" ... if there's any left, and you like experiments, get by there and grab some!)

We're sure to learn something from this. And the good news is that it's fermenting away happily. We'll find out what's up when the yeast is done. Yay for yeast. Go you little micro-organisms, go.

Explore Beer By BART - a list of Bay Area good beer places with transit info, and get out there to enjoy without driving.

Pada speech processor "raises the average power relative to peak power",....... Banyak penafsiran akan hal ini. Namun lebih jelasnya mari kita lihat pada chart dibawah ini:

Terkadang disaat kita merasakan bahwa audio kita saat berkomunikasi terkesan kurang lantang, maka pengaturan mic gain dan volume pada sistem "audio processing" tanpa "speech processing" yang akan kita putar. Hal ini hanya akan menambah peak power nya saja. artinya average power dari audio kita tetap saja. Sehingga tetap saja audio kita tidak akan pernah lantang. Speech processor memperbaiki hal tersebut, dengan speech processor ini dapat menaikkan average power. Dengan demikian diharapkan audio kita bisa lebih menonjol dan lantang.

Sudah lama saya tertarik dengan rangkaian dibawah ini, dan kebetulan rangkaian ini termasuk speech processing:

Eksperimen saya lakukan dengan bertahap, pertama saya membuat sampai dengan T1,..pada tahap ini suara dari mic condenser sudah terdengar dan bernuansa agak treble. Lalu saya teruskan lagi sampai pada T2 dan seterusnya. P1 berfungsi sebagai mic gain,...semakin besar kita membuka potensiometer atau trimpotnya maka semakin besar amplitudo dan noisenya. Ada baiknya di atur minimal saja sehingga noise tidak terlalu besar. P2,...pada fungsi potensiometer atau trimpot ini awalnya agak membingungkan saya, setelah saya amati ternyata P2 ini berfungsi sebagai tone audio (Perhatikan konstruksi P2 dan kapasitor 100 uF yang membentuk Low Pass Filter). Dan ternyata benar,..setelah saya atur suara yang dihasilkan memang menimbulkan nada bass. Namun sebelum melakukan semua test diatas saya mencoba merenungkan apa fungsi coil dengan nilai 3 - 3.5 Henry. Setelah saya perhatikan dengan seksama sepertinya juga berfungsi untuk Filter. Karena susah mencarinya, akhirnya saya ganti dengan Resistor 1 Kilo ohm. Selain itu saya juga melakukan perubahan pada Kapasitor Output yang terhubung dengan basis T4 (yg bernilai 100 nF). Dan secara kesuluruhan setelah saya amati, maka hasilnya sangat memuaskan. Audio yang dihasilkan memang menaikkan average powernya dengan noise (Peak power) yang rendah.

Mohon maaf,...belum bisa menyertakan hasil jadi dari rangkaian tersebut,.....

Saya usahakan segera akan saya tambahkan pada tulisan ini gambar tersebut........

Selamat Mencoba,.....!!!!

I found a good notes about homebrewing from JF1OZL sites

Kazuhiro Sunamura said:

This is wrong way of homebrew :
1.Reading the article on the book.
2.Buying the parts on the book.
3.Making the print board.
4.Soldering.
5.Checking the movement.
6.Not completed!!

And if we are stay at a wrong way.... we always have a condition and do something like below:

1.Even if you could get the same type of transistor as the article on the book, you must arrange the bias current in many cases.
2.The parts supplier says "equivalent parts". But that means that "you can use it , if you make some arrangement on the circuit.".
3.If one part of the machine ( made by 100 of parts) were connected fail, the gear can not move.
4. As one of an author of the magazine , I must say that the circuit is printed wrong in sometimes. 1k ohm is printed 1 ohm in sometimes.
5.The pitfalls described above will wait for you. You will fall in each of them with the probability of 50%. You will reach the goal with the probability of 0.5*0.5*0.5*0.5=0.06 . Yes only 6%.

This is the right way of homebrew :
1.Reading the article on the book.
2.Understanding the block diagram.If the article shows only circuit, you must wright the block diagram by     yourself.
3.Understand the movement of each blocks one by one. Foe example,if the main positive part of the block  was IC, you must check as follows.
*Check the difference of the circuit between the article and the application circuit on the databook of the maker!
*Check the inner circuit on the IC! You must understand the movement of that IC as the transistor level.
*Check the impedance of the article is good for that IC!
*Check the signal level of the article is good for that IC!
*Check the power level (Vcc) of the article is good for that IC!
*Check the frequency of the article is good for that IC!
*Check the IC of the article is acceptable for you , or not! If the main part was transistor , you must check the same way.
4.Write the circuit with your stock. Foe example, LM386 must be used instead of LM380 on the article. Then you must check the Vcc, you must check that the 8 ohm speaker can be used or not.
5.Make the block one by one. And you must check the movement of the block one by one. The radio must be made from the power amplifier. The ssb transmitter must be made from the mic amplifier. Nobody will make transmitter from the final AMP. Sometimes you must make the pretest about the relation for the frequency of the machine. Therefore the pretest of the oscillator and filter must be made in some cases.
6.Check the machine on the board.
7.Make case!
8.Here you came only half the way.
9.You must make some QSO with your local station. Receive the report!
10.I will describe about check point of SSB transmitter.
*You say " sha-syu-syo-"! You can arrange the relation between the filter and carrier oscillator.
*If your voice vibrates on the top of each words (for example "action" can be heard like "Gaction".), you must reduce the voltage of the signal of microphone amplifier.
*You must check the linearity of the final amplifier.
*You must check the hum.
*you must check about the self oscillation of the microphone wire and the antenna. Sometimes this  phenomenon happens on the timing of peak power of the ssb signal.
*You must check the stability with the another power supply.
*You must test the transmitter with no antenna on the connector. On the top of the hill sometimrs the wire of antenna will be broken.
11.Apply to the association.
12.Somebody makes the case on the top of the project.
13.Do not afraid to fail! My project completes only 50% of these days

Up to you,...for make a decision about you are running on wrong way or right way of homebrewing....!!

Thanks For JF1OZL (Kazuhiro Sunamura) !

You are a trully HomeBrewer,..........

The original inspiration for this plan was the Queen of Beer competition, open only to female homebrewers. Since we're pretty much the only female homebrewers we know in this area, and since we're both beginners at this, we decided to band together. Now of course, neither of us has any lack of enthusiasm for big, fancy beers, so we picked an odd concept (to remain a surprise until the beer is ready), and then started modifying the heck out of our original, modest recipe. Suggestions started flying around fast: "What if we throw honey in it?" Or, "Why don't we just put a pinch of special spice in at the end?" Or, "Oooh, let's just throw some Brett into it and hold it for a year. No, I know, we'll take it to my cousin's farm and let it sit in the open and spontaneously ferment!" Needless to say, I think our enthusiasm outran our talent at this stage in the game. We reigned ourselves in a bit and settled on a formula that is still pretty interesting and unusual, and ought to have been completely manageable...

Yet, as I've found every time I've brewed: What can go wrong, will go wrong. I had made a few adjustments to my cache of equipment, trading up to a carboy from a bucket, and buying the colander I so desperately needed next time. I even had the foresight to test my outside camp stove to make sure I had gas left (plenty) and to make sure the burner was working (just fine). What we didn't count on, however, was that over the course of the day, the pressure in the gas line from the propane tank to the stove would go lower and lower due to a leak somewhere in the line. This was probably highly dangerous, but at the time, we mostly thought it was highly annoying since our wort took forever to reach boiling again after we added our extract. We never did get it just right, but we'll just have to wait and see how it affects the beer.

Still, I'm proud of us. I got to practice some new techniques (e.g., making a yeast starter) and picked up a lot of science from Gail, who knows her brewing chemistry back and forth. And of course, we didn't take it all too seriously, and went out to Toronado afterwards to reward ourselves with a beer that didn't require 10.5 hours of pacing my kitchen.

I'm going to let the picture captions tell most of the story since I was pretty diligent about documenting the process this time. All times listed below are approximate, to the best of my memory from yesterday.

we just moved into a new apartment, but I still managed to bottle my batch of foregin extra stout. I hadn't intended to save the yeast cake from the fermenter but how could I say no to this nice thick slurry?

I used wyeast 1028 for this batch and I got almost a full quart from the fermenter. This wasn't even all of it either! Usually a nice huge yeast cake means a healthy fermentation, and with a higher gravity beer like this there was a ton.

Cans.

Building on last year's huge success, my pals who work up at Peace Coffee and Bedlam Theater in Minneapolis have organized the (second?) annual International Canned Beer Month. I celebrated by visiting the Red Derby, a new bar in my old Washington D.C. neighborhood of Columbia Heights that only serves canned beer. Woo hoo! I had a Sea Hag IPA from New England Brewing Co., and a Gordon Imperial IPA from

Oskar Blues, the granddaddy of craft beer canners. Pop the tab up there on their website to learn how to get in on the canned beer action.

Mead.

Saturday, August 2, was Mead Day, sponsored by the American Homebrewers Association. To celebrate, I harvested honey for the first time in my life. It came from my friend Jay's beehive that is situated about three feet from my own hive. We had to return the honey extractor he borrowed from his neighbor so we'll harvest the honey from my hive as soon as we can borrow the extractor again.

We did manage to brew up some homebrew and add a pound or so of our freshly-harvested honey. Can't wait to taste that in a couple weeks.

Rocks.

Apparently I run in a crowd of people who like declaring International Days of this and International Months of that. My longtime friend and homebrewing and writing comrade Dave Bonta has turned up a rockin' idea: International Rock-Flipping Day. On the first Sunday of September ye shall flip a rock, look underneath, and observe.

What does this have to do with beer? Well, I don't know for sure but I can picture Dave sitting on his front porch drinking a homebrew and staring at his yard and thinking: "Hey, I know, I'll flip that rock over and see what's underneath. Yeah, everyone should do that. I'm gonna start an International Day. Well, first I'm gonna have another homebrew but then I'm gonna start an International Day." And thus it began.